Draft & Muslin The Magic is in the Wearing:
The Challenge: Create the assigned pattern in half scale. Sew a 1st sample.
This pattern was created in ½ scale.
To create The Magic is in the Wearing, the process is quite simple. The pattern is intended to be created in a stretch knit. The Magic is in the Wearing is a versatile dress that can be worn several different ways.
The Pattern Magic book gives one simple direction in the patternmaking for this design.
1. Draw a rectangle. The width of the rectangle is ½ of the hip measurement of your body or dress form, divided by 2, minus 2 or 3 inches. (H/2 -2~3)
2. Draw the rectangle 140cm long.
3. From the hem, make a notch 50 cm up. This is now your stitching line
4. The left hand side of the pattern is your center back; the right side is your center front. The waist will be cut on fold.
5. This is your entire pattern
The Challenge: Create the assigned pattern in half scale. Sew a 1st sample.
This pattern was created in ½ scale.
To create The Magic is in the Wearing, the process is quite simple. The pattern is intended to be created in a stretch knit. The Magic is in the Wearing is a versatile dress that can be worn several different ways.
The Pattern Magic book gives one simple direction in the patternmaking for this design.
1. Draw a rectangle. The width of the rectangle is ½ of the hip measurement of your body or dress form, divided by 2, minus 2 or 3 inches. (H/2 -2~3)
2. Draw the rectangle 140cm long.
3. From the hem, make a notch 50 cm up. This is now your stitching line
4. The left hand side of the pattern is your center back; the right side is your center front. The waist will be cut on fold.
5. This is your entire pattern
6. Cut the pattern out of a knit fabric on fold
7. Sew the CF and CB to the notched point. Sew using a safety stitch machine
7. Sew the CF and CB to the notched point. Sew using a safety stitch machine
8. The seams will go down the center front and center back of the body. The long unattached piece that looks a giant strap is the piece that can twisted around the body to form different dresses.
9. Here are examples of dress styles:
9. Here are examples of dress styles:
Analysis:
Q1: What type of flat patternmaking is this: Dart manipulation? Added Fullness? Contouring? Something else? A combination?
I would consider this a “something else”. No darts were manipulated, nothing was manipulated to add extra fullness, the pattern piece is simply a rectangle. This would be “drafting” a new pattern.
Q2: What are the basic principles of this pattern?
Make sure the hip measurement is accurately calculated.
Make sure the rectangle has 90 degree angles.
Q3: What are the basic rules of this pattern?
There are really no rules for this pattern.
As long as the hip measurement is correct all other measurements can be altered to the designers preference.
Q4: Are these rules and principles always true?
Yes the hip measurement must be correct or else the garment will not fit tight enough and fall off.
Q5: What rules of traditional patternmaking are broken in this pattern?
This pattern does not follow traditional patternmaking what so ever.
Q1: What type of flat patternmaking is this: Dart manipulation? Added Fullness? Contouring? Something else? A combination?
I would consider this a “something else”. No darts were manipulated, nothing was manipulated to add extra fullness, the pattern piece is simply a rectangle. This would be “drafting” a new pattern.
Q2: What are the basic principles of this pattern?
Make sure the hip measurement is accurately calculated.
Make sure the rectangle has 90 degree angles.
Q3: What are the basic rules of this pattern?
There are really no rules for this pattern.
As long as the hip measurement is correct all other measurements can be altered to the designers preference.
Q4: Are these rules and principles always true?
Yes the hip measurement must be correct or else the garment will not fit tight enough and fall off.
Q5: What rules of traditional patternmaking are broken in this pattern?
This pattern does not follow traditional patternmaking what so ever.
Application: The Challenge: Create your own half scale pattern by applying the rules and principles of this pattern in a different location of the garment. Sew a 1st sample.
I continued The Magic is in the Wearing to a sleeve variation where the continuation of the sleeves actually wrap around to the shirt.
1. I drew a rectangle 6” wide by 90 cm long.
2. Notch at 30cm up from the bottom, this will be your stopping point for sewing.
I continued The Magic is in the Wearing to a sleeve variation where the continuation of the sleeves actually wrap around to the shirt.
1. I drew a rectangle 6” wide by 90 cm long.
2. Notch at 30cm up from the bottom, this will be your stopping point for sewing.
3. Cut 2 pattern pieces for each sleeve, a front sleeve and a back sleeve.
4. Using the safety stitch machine sew to the notched point.
5. Using the extra straps wrap them around the bust and body to your desire!
4. Using the safety stitch machine sew to the notched point.
5. Using the extra straps wrap them around the bust and body to your desire!
Evaluation:
Q1: Did you stay true to the basic principles of the original pattern?
The hip measurement did not apply to the sleeve variation, the rectangle lines were parallel to one another and corners were 90 degrees, but no there were no basic principles.
Q2: Where did you move the pattern manipulation and how well did that work?
I move the pattern to the sleeve. This worked out very well, almost better than the dress. It provided more coverage of the bust and it was more secure. There was less gapping and many ways you could twist the straps to create different top designs!
Q3: Do all the same rules still apply? Did the need for new rules appear when you made this change?
There were no rules applied to this patternmaking design.
In the industry:
A popular bridesmaid dress this season is the convertible dress that can be worn multiple different ways. This was bridesmaids are able to all buy the same dress but where it to a style of their choice. Here are just a few examples! These were found on Belle the Magazine, a blog for the Sophisticated Bride. They're available at dessy.com
http://www.bellethemagazine.com/2012/06/convertible-bridesmaid-dresses.html
Q1: Did you stay true to the basic principles of the original pattern?
The hip measurement did not apply to the sleeve variation, the rectangle lines were parallel to one another and corners were 90 degrees, but no there were no basic principles.
Q2: Where did you move the pattern manipulation and how well did that work?
I move the pattern to the sleeve. This worked out very well, almost better than the dress. It provided more coverage of the bust and it was more secure. There was less gapping and many ways you could twist the straps to create different top designs!
Q3: Do all the same rules still apply? Did the need for new rules appear when you made this change?
There were no rules applied to this patternmaking design.
In the industry:
A popular bridesmaid dress this season is the convertible dress that can be worn multiple different ways. This was bridesmaids are able to all buy the same dress but where it to a style of their choice. Here are just a few examples! These were found on Belle the Magazine, a blog for the Sophisticated Bride. They're available at dessy.com
http://www.bellethemagazine.com/2012/06/convertible-bridesmaid-dresses.html